Maintenance
The general maintenance requirements are much the same for this chassis as for any high performance vehicle. As this vehicle is basically a competition car, its maintenance should be looked at more like an INDY car, Trans-Am car, or a sport bike.
It is
therefore highly recommended that the owner take a bit more time and effort in the
maintenance of this chassis to insure top performance at all times.
After all, it is your car. You should be as proud of its
underpinnings as you are of your paint job.
Some basics are as follows.
Cleanliness of the suspension components.
This is an area in which most vehicles are completely ignored throughout their operating
life. It is recommended as good practice that all components of the suspension (IE. rod
ends, A-arms, coil-over dampers, anti-roll bars, etc.) be cleaned by hand with shop towels
that are lightly coated with WD-40 or its equivalent on an every 5000 mile basis. This allows
the owner to inspect all bolts and various components both visually and by feel for any
damage that may have occurred in use and for any loosening or increase in clearances due
to wear.
Cleanliness of the stressed skin chassis.
This is also an area typically overlooked in maintenance. As this chassis relies on all of
its components for strength and performance, the cleaning of the chassis allows the owner
to inspect all areas for damage from usage. Cleaning is as recommended above. Of
particular importance are rock dings in the paint on the chassis. These will allow
corrosion to begin, therefore when found, these must be
touched up by application of fresh chassis paint just as you would touch up the paint on
your Bodywork.
Chassis and Suspension bolt and nut torque's.
It is extremely good practice to check the status of bolt and nut torque's on a regular
basis. If the vehicle is being raced full time, this is done before each
practice/qualifying session and then checked again before the race. If the vehicle is only
used for road use, it is recommended that these are checked every 15,000 miles or after
usage on particularly bad road conditions. (IE. Washboard surfaces, or on Northern roads
after the winter) It is also recommended that a chemical locking compound be used on all
bolts. (Loctite blue, not red.) {Note: also see Carroll Smith's book "Prepare to
Win". This book gives excellent detail preparation recommendations, which we do not
have the room for here.} Note: See torque chart at end of manual.
Chassis fluids and Lubrication of components.
Chassis Bolt Torques
Lower outboard rod end nut. | 75 ft lbs.* |
Lower inboard rod end mount bolts. | 24 ft lbs.* |
Upper Rocker arm shaft. | 15 ft lbs.* |
Upper Rocker arm inboard bracket bolts. | 30 ft lbs.* |
Upper rod end nut. | 30 ft lbs.* |
Anti-roll Bar mount bolts. (frame attachment) | 35 ft lbs.* |
(Cap attachment) | 25 ft lbs.* |
Anti-roll Bar blade actuator bolts. | 15 ft lbs.* |
Anti-roll Bar rod end nut. | 14 ft lbs.* |
Upper and lower damper bolts | 35 ft lbs.* |
Wheel mount nuts.(use Never~Seize lubricant) | 75 ft lbs. |
Lower outboard pivot bolts | 34 ft lbs.* |
Lower inboard rod end mount bolts | 24 ft lbs.* |
Toe Link rod end bolt | 24 ft lbs.* |
Upper outboard pivot bolt | 34 ft lbs.* |
Upper inboard rod end mount bolts | 24 ft lbs.* |
Anti-roll Bar mount bolts. (frame attachment) | 35 ft lbs.* |
Anti-roll Bar blade actuator bolts. | 35 ft lbs.* |
Anti-roll Bar rod end nut. | 14 ft lbs.* |
Upper and lower damper bolts | 35 ft lbs.* |
Wheel mount nuts. (use Never~Seize lubricant) | 75 ft lbs. |
1/4 bolts | 6 ft lbs.* |
5/16 bolts | 17 ft lbs.* |
3/8 bolts | 30 ft lbs.* |
7/16 bolts | 42 ft lbs.* |
1/2 bolts | 65 ft lbs.* |
Note: An asterisk indicates use of locking compound (Loctite blue)